The Samburu are one of several groups who have fought to the death over their ancestral homelands and its resources. However, this conflict hasn’t been solely reserved for men. Human-wildlife conflict has been a big problem in this part of northern Kenya, too, with tribesmen killing or harming elephants they feared to be a danger to their livestock.

As the curtain of darkness falls, someone yells, "look!" and I snap my head upward. The sun looks as if it has been shot through with a bullet; a huge gaping hole remains where the center should have been. The sun, free from its shackles, extends its arms and dances. Firey wisps seem to buzz with some otherworldly energy.